Sunday, November 30, 2008
November sucked
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On the bus today I observed what seemed to be a family opposite me. Two of them had little flowers drawn on their sneakers in ball-point. I was so curious about this familial graffiti all day. How charming it was.
Thursday, November 27, 2008
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Hail to the chef
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Damned if you don't
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Boyzone
Monday, October 27, 2008
Dedicated follower of fashion
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
Thursday, October 09, 2008
Hours of idleness
What a happy waste of time.
Tuesday, October 07, 2008
I’ve got the power
Here is my list:
“Ca Plane Pour Moi” – Plastic Bertrand
Anyone who knows me knows I rate this as one of the best audio experiences on earth. Anyone who knows me well knows, when I get really excited, I like to play this on loop via 3 or more players at the same time, and all beginning at different times. The effect, if you’re really excited, is like taking every drug at the same time and somehow staying conscious.
“The Don” - The View
Like any good pop record, this song can be played incessantly when you first hear it, and even when you’re sick of it you still have the impulse to play it again. I don’t really get the lyrics, but it does transport me to being young and bored on the streets of Scotland (which I never was).
“Crazy Taxi” – Andy Hui
I wanted to put something from ‘home’, but it was a little tricky, as pretty much all popular Asian music could be loosely referred to as power-pop. Andy Hui is a personal hero of mine. When I first came to Hong Kong I fell in love with his then-girlfriend Sammi Cheng (again, never met her), and I hated him because I thought he wasn’t good enough for her. Later I saw him in concert though and saw what an amazing voice he had. It was clear that most HK singers relied on studio effects and costumes to make their music, but Andy Hui had a reputation for giving a shit and working hard. Now I’ll buy anything he puts out, and sit in the dark with my headphones and listen to every little nuance of his voice like a quivering, star-struck schoolgirl.
I don’t know what the song is about; I assume it’s about the video game of the same name.
I once assigned my first assistant the task of learning this song in karaoke, and he did it. Work can sometimes be much too fun.
“Mr Brightside” – The Killers
I was kind of unsure about adding a song that I assumed everyone knows, but the test was to come up with the songs that fit the subject the best, and this ticks all the right boxes. This one almost got replaced by “Cookie Day” by Shonen Knife, but in the end I kind of started getting annoyed with them, and The Killers still excited me, so they won this prestigious placement. I always remember being in the gym and listening to these lyrics for the first time. I don’t know why that moment will always stand out in my mind.
“Get Over You” – The Undertones
The Undertones always struck me as one of the first power pop bands. They had the edge of punk and the confidence to make commercial music. The first mixed tape I ever received had Fergal Sharkey on it. It was almost 10 years later that I found out Fergal Sharkey was actually much more famous for his original band the Undertones. I think they are also famous for being the only band John Peel played twice in a row (with “Teenage Kicks”, which he said was the perfect pop record).
“Baby Talk” – Generation X/Billy Idol
I had a huge Billy Idol resurgence about a year ago after I discovered his recent album “Devil’s Playground”. I always felt he became just too commercially popular to keep his credentials. Having said that, though, “Whiplash Smile” is still one of the best albums ever recorded.
“Go Square Go!” – Glasvegas
Another example of a song that pushes so many of the right buttons you almost start to resent it. Everything I heard from Glasvegas is as exciting as this, and I’m a real sucker for a Scottish accent. I’d love to take Baby up there and get her to pick up some of those tones. Man, I’m dripping all over the floor just thinking about it.
“We’re All Going To Die” – Malcolm Middleton
This was a last minute entry, and I was very excited when I thought of it. It also made me realize 3 of the 8 entries are from Scotland (and only one from America). This song was being pushed by a few indie radio stations to become the English Christmas number one last year, but it didn’t make it unfortunately. Malcolm Middleton was also in the punk band Arab Strap, which I’m frantically trying to illegally download now.
“Jet Boy Jet Girl” – Elton Mortello (*extra special bonus track)
I was torn between this and the Plastic Bertrand version. I didn’t want to include them both as that would really eat away at my precious 8 slots. In the end I chose Plastic Bertrand as it’s the one I listen to more. I’ve tried to figure out which one was recorded first, but the more I read about these two songs, the more I start to believe that we, the public, are not supposed to ever know the truth. Essentially they are the same backing tracks, but the Belgian version has silly bubble-gum lyrics, and the English version is about a 15 year old boy who is introduced to sex with another guy, then gets his heart broken when he sees him playing around with girls. I’m pretty sure Plastic Bertrand was the drummer for Elton Mortello, and I also heard they used the same session musicians in two separate recordings, one after the other, to avoid any copyright infringement of the recordings.
Monday, September 29, 2008
Us and them
Saturday, September 06, 2008
We like opiate!
We’ve just started Season II. It is like a kooky morality play, where every player has a clearly defined character, and we learn a little about ourselves and our place in mankind in every episode. Anyway, it seems it’s been on for ages on this television system. I HAVE to get one of these, and figure out how to access the television phenomenon.
Monday, September 01, 2008
Fine tuning
Mum: “Why doesn’t he wipe the sweat off?”
Dad: “How should I know?”
Mum: “You know everything.”
Dad: “I’m not telling you.”
What struck me was that this was pretty much a carbon copy of many petty arguments I have with my wife – she asks a stupid question, I reply in a dismissive manner, she retorts with a response that, though clever, indicates that she never really took the question seriously in the first place, I reply with a tender yet defiant remark.
I am 37 and I have definitely become my parents. I see it as a kind of step in evolution, where one repeats the past, in the hope that one day they can finally perfect it and move forward.
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
Sexy books
This is part of a larger plate lithograph I drew from a photo of a gypsy and a dancing bear. I always loved this photo. Years later my friend showed me exactly the same photo, but I haven’t seen it since. After I finished the lithograph I decided to splash some random ink across a new plate a-la Toulouse Lautrec. It ruined it; the same way I ruined the silkscreen cat T-shirt by adding a purple box at the end, and the Danse Arts poster by deciding in the last minute to make a random pattern on each one.
Sunday, August 17, 2008
Interlude
Turns out it was Danny Hui, old rising star who was torn from fame by heroin abuse, now alive again and performing on a Mong Kok street, half circus act, half giant.
I gave him $10 then the rest of the crowd started dropping money into the various hats and buckets around him. It’s crowd mentality – very hard to be the first one when everyone is watching.
I can’t imagine the balls this man must have. It sounded great, amid all the empty noise and clutter on the street. Imagine, amid all those people … a human.
Thursday, August 14, 2008
Selling death
When groups of people die though, the news always says something like: “Twelve people died, including 4 children”. What does that mean? Children are more valuable than adults?
I think it’s not fair; the papers should get some perspective.
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Thoughts (part 2)
Sunday, August 10, 2008
Boy power
Wednesday, August 06, 2008
A successful descent
Fun in Seoul
I haven’t drawn for 2 weeks. This is a scan of an old plate lithograph from “Elfonzo’s Lost Cat”, a story I wrote about a man who lost his cat, then hatched a plan to find it by circling his house, gradually expanding the diameter of his search so as not to miss any spot. He grew obsessed, insane, looking for his cat. It ended with him taking a dump on the sidewalk and looking up and seeing his cat, but being too absorbed in his manic search to recognise the animal anymore.
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Role-play
When I used to live in Bermuda I had to write my occupation on the arrival card, so I used to write whatever I wanted to be, like opera singer, conductor or matador. Travelling is just a form of pseudo-suicide.
I think the people in the Cartier shops in HK, S Korea and NY probably know me by now, but apart from that I could be anybody. I’m very tempted to act like an asshole for the whole trip, to play that role, just to see.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Thoughts (part 1)
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Nothing can stop me now
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Diagnosis, murder
When you hang out with people you need to interact with them. This sometimes means putting up with their asininities, and sometimes, if they’re quite clever, means you get to intellectually pare with them. Tonight was a bit of both, but ended up, as any good human event should, with intoxication and dancing.
I like people, I really do. I just wish so many of them weren’t so hung up on themselves. Really, we’re here to fuck and have a good time. You can diagnose it as much as you like, but you’re going to come to the same conclusion: fuck … good time. Art … girls and boys. It’s really not that complicated.
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I believe my grandfather coined the title "Diagnosis, Murder" in his novel of the same name, under the pen name of "Sutherland Scott". A fine writer in my somewhat biased opinion.
Friday, July 18, 2008
Move on
I would usually laugh at the “persecute-them-before-they-persecute-us” circus that is the Middle East, but this whole thing is just a case of humanity gone straight out the window.
Sometimes I just wish everyone would kill each other and get it over with, I’m sick to death of all this petty god, possession, hatred idiocy.
I’ve seen a little of the Middle East, and I can tell you friends, they’re all just a bunch of people, just like me. Just as useless and pointless and beautiful as everyone else.
I know what it’s like to be pissed off and get in a fight, but I get over it.
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
The slow train to Tahiti
I used to amuse myself and exasperate my history of art teacher by saying “I could do that” every time he showed us Gauguin. One day he handed me a sketchbook and some colours and said “Okay, so go and do it.”
That was the 2nd best lesson I ever received.
Monday, July 14, 2008
Nothing's wrong
Tomorrow I will do something stupid. Tomorrow I will make a mistake on purpose. Tomorrow I will feel my pulse again.
Sunday, July 06, 2008
Vanity fair
I decided to draw with my left hand today even though my right is functioning pretty much as normal. I was a little disappointed to discover it seems to be exactly the same as drawing with my right, just slower. Perhaps I’m ambidextrous. Or perhaps I’m just not very good. Or perhaps my old suspicion is true after all, and god himself is moving through me.
Thursday, July 03, 2008
Son of a bitch
Actually, after 4 days I do have the feeling back in all my digits but one, but I thought it would be more dramatic if I pretended I had to draw with my left hand. I almost enjoyed it - makes me feel like a tough guy, especially with the wounds.
Saturday, June 21, 2008
The end of an error
In celebration of this landmark, the world is slowly starting to feel secure that they can also actually bid a stony farewell to the Bush administration. Now I know how the men in the trenches in WWI must have felt when they were told the war was over, after having spent a year knee-deep in water in the same trench, in the same insect-ridden clothes, with the same hideous task. The future is bright. It’s so bright it’s almost unnerving. Think, when Obama is president, it’ll be like taking a weekend off and really cleaning your kitchen properly. It’ll be like getting sick and then getting better because you took the right steps. It’ll be like shooting a load into the gut of the girl or boy of your dreams. It will be like nirvana when Obama is president.
I can’t wait; let’s start the momentum of progress immediately. Let’s change.
Good riddance the past, I never liked you anyway.
Friday, June 20, 2008
Make love to the camera
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I’ve put this blog address on some of the cards. Partly to push myself to draw more, and partly because we’ve got a few jobs because of this blog, weirdly enough. Sometime my clients tell me “I was reading your blog yesterday,” and I assume they are going to say “and I think we won’t be doing any more business with you.” But they usually say something like “I didn’t know you were so odd, can you redesign something for us please?” It feels a little wrong, like the time I had a partially nude girl on my name card and I walked on to the exit ramp at a press conference and forced the president of Mitsubishi to take a card. It all happened so fast, the security didn’t know what to do, and I was back in the press section in a flash after he took it, looking completely confused. He never called me, but it all made sense at the time.
Well, we soldier on, I suppose.
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Sick of goodbyes
It was a strange feeling, holding it, watching it dying, feeding it sugar water, a kind of helplessness I’m not familiar with – it’s like a panic, but a calm panic. You realize something needs to be done, but it’s too late, and, amazingly, it dies. It seems impossible, something so profound as death can happen so easily.
Sunday, June 15, 2008
Creastruction
This was the best lesson I received in college … we had a 3 hour painting class … at the beginning the teacher told us we would spend the entire class painting a landscape. Half way through the class he told us to stop and paint over what we had done. Everyone in the class cried and complained – after an hour and a half we’d gotten emotionally attached to our paintings and invested so much into them. Our teacher explained that today’s lesson was “destruction”, and we would never progress until we understood the value of re-viewing and re-creating; the value of destroying what we created.
Sunday, June 08, 2008
How to hate
What can I do with this evil man? Baby suggests the fact he despises me so much indicates he maybe loves me. Baby should know – every time she unleashes her hatred of me she points out it is only because she loves me so much, and if she didn’t love me she wouldn’t bother.
His over-theatrical derision drives me to an exaggerated joy whenever I see him. I don’t know why, maybe because I know it etches the hatred deeper into his crooked spine.
I’m at breaking point. Next time I see him I may just pull out Mr Thriller and wave Him in his face, or maybe I’ll just grab the fire extinguisher and pummel his skull into jelly until I’m sure I’ll never have to see his twisted lips again.
Ah hatred, how energizing you are, how inspiring you are, how intoxicating you are, how I adore you.
Saturday, June 07, 2008
I don't know what debt is
I’ve learned the three chords in The White Stripes’ “You Don’t Know What Love Is (You Just Do As You’re Told)”. I feel the power of satan in me.
Sunday, June 01, 2008
People!
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Meet my new mistress
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Until I start drawing again, I’ll just post random scans from old pictures. This is a banana I had a particular affection for, and I didn’t want it to decompose into obscurity, so I drew it.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
I want you
I have a plan. I’m going to invade Burma. All those dispossessed people, all those passive monks, that inept and globally hated junta. It’s practically a revolution just waiting to happen; just waiting for me. Oh how fucking fun it will be, choosing a new national anthem and watching statues of myself going up. I’ve checked a map. We’ll sail from Sri Lanka. There’s nothing in the way, and there’s no one in Sri Lanka who can or will stop us from gathering. We’ll go in many small boats. If we go in one big boat it might get stopped by the Myanmar military, but they won’t be able to stop many little boats. I’ve thought of everything.
We’ll need weapons, but we’ll barely need to use them. We’ll need them just to show we’re serious and to cut down the very few people who will resist. I calculate the Burmese military will almost immediately join us. They will have sensed long ago that the current leaders have lost the plot and are on a one way street to obsoletion. Still, we’ll cut deals with the current leaders, giving them ineffectual positions in the new regime where they can at least live out their worthless lives in peace. I want it to be a quick, clean revolution, otherwise it will drag out and we’ll have stupid little fractions to deal with afterwards. As king I will appoint Aung Sang Syu Ki as president. This will please the peacemongers and Europeans who feel they have a vested interest in the country's wellbeing and may get in the way.
For the initial army, I need only 50,000 men and women. I will pay you after we secure power, US$1000 each. Not bad for ten days’ work. I’ll cut a deal with the United States to pay you off – they will be happy to settle the account to have a friend in Burma. They do it all the time. I’ve calculated it, it comes to 50 million US dollars. Believe me, I know how these people work, and it’s a goddamn bargain. Send your contact details to: domboy@wrongdesign.com and I’ll cc everyone with the time and place to meet. I’ll need someone to help purchase all the boats and someone who’s good at logistics. I’ve really thought of everything.
Monday, May 19, 2008
It’s all swell when you’re well
Later Baby mentioned Laika. I always thought Laika survived, but it turns out her spaceship wasn’t even designed to be able to make it back into orbit. Later Laika was honored with all sorts of statues, postage stamps etc, which somehow makes me feel even more sorry for Laika. I bet all she wanted was some food, a place to run around, and a good fuck.
Well, in a nutshell: I’m sick, we’re all going to die, and existence is futile.
Thursday, May 15, 2008
The libertine
What troubled me most was that it was all true. Where they had a deep spiritual conscious, no matter how absurd it was, I had only an indiscriminate fancy, based on nothing but orgasms, pride and desire. I have no soul. I am like a Labrador, running through a sunlit field; it’s tongue hanging out, with a glorious, idiot smile on its face.
I wish I had a soul. I listen to Mahalia Jackson and I wish I had a soul. I meet my fiends and relatives who have a certain and defined faith and I wish I had a soul. I speak to virtual strangers who are discovering subtle and profound truths about themselves and I wish I had a soul. But I don’t. I am hollow and empty like the rotten core of a decaying tree trunk. Like a shell whose inhabitant has long left for a larger housing. Like Kenny G. I am on a path of existence, leading towards a death that will lead me into eternal nothingness. It makes me feel so … liberated.
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Men’s stage-fright (a true story)
I was defiant, and I stood there facing the wall, determined to do my business. But I couldn’t. I waited, I concentrated, I tried not to concentrate, but I couldn’t pee. I can’t remember if I ever had men’s’ stage-fright before, but I definitely had it after that episode.
I have made an amazing discovery though; a Nobel Prize worthy discovery … I think I have cured men’s stage-fright. If you’re a man, or if you know a man, please read this.
Now, when I feel stage-fright coming on, I think of the Buddha. Yes, the Buddha. I visualize him, with his happy face and big belly, and I can pee. I can’t for the life of me remember how I came to this discovery. I know, over time, I tried various things to think about, and various techniques, and this was one of them, but I just can’t remember why on earth I would decide to try thinking of the Buddha. I haven’t been in a situation as dire as a masturbating stranger yet, so I’m not sure if it works in extreme circumstances, and I’m also not sure if it’s just me because I have a certain innate reaction to the Buddha, but it’s worked for years, so I think it’s a pretty good discovery. This is not a joke, by the way, and it doesn’t contain an indirect hidden message, so please try it and tell me how you get on.
Thursday, May 08, 2008
Fish eat fish
This reminded me of when I got a free pass to a new gym. My regular gym has a big, open changing room, but this new gym had a tiny one cluttered with ill-places seats. In my regular gym people are generally polite and generous in the changing room – they stand back and make room for each other, but in this new gym it was dog eat dog, with everyone vying for a good spot to change, jumping all over each other and the furniture and aggressively protecting their little patches.
This in turn reminds me of the Middle East.
Silly little fish.
Monday, April 28, 2008
Flashbacks
When I was walking to the bar I passed a 24 hour disco, windows all covered up and an endless thumping of dance music vaguely muffled. The girlie bars were still open too, and I was glad to see they now use little girls in polyester hot pants to lure customers in, instead of the ancient and wholly uninspired “mama sans” that used to invite you in back in the day when I walked those streets.
Photographing the bar bought back endless memories too. It smelled just like the room I used to live in during my first summer after college – above a bar, next door to a bar and opposite a bar. Twelve rooms altogether, all sharing 2 bathrooms (one for boys, one for girls). The light bulbs were always being stolen, so I learned how to shave in the dark. It was a great summer. It’s okay to be poor and working 3 jobs when everyone around you is also poor and working hard and, most importantly, young. I had a double bed, and Pony lent me a small refrigerator which I kept cheese and beans and which kept me alive together with the stale pastries I salvaged from the deli trash.
We took six hours, photographing booths and drinks and private rooms, and all the time it was like the radio was stuck in 1986. The memories just kept piling up and up till I really felt a little touched when the Neil Diamond, Barbara Streisand duet “You Don’t Bring Me Flowers” came on. I was only about 11 years old when I used to play this song incessantly on my Walkman, and it was weird to realize I still know it word for word; especially when I think I had absolutely no experience of breaking up from a serious relationship when I was 11. Then again, I was singing my heart out to Bronski Beat 3 years later, even though I had no idea what a homosexual was. The music also slipped back into hippie times, and when the 25 minute instrumental version of “Marrakesh Express” finished I was just about ready to walk out of the job. I repaired myself by illegally downloading everything I could find by Bright Eyes when I got home and then, when I was sure I loved it, I bought it, and played it until there was something like truth stirring my blackened soul.
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I talk to myself a lot. For posterity, I wanted to record the various names I use to refer to myself and their variants:
Dom, Domboy, King Dom, Big Dom, Big Bad Ass Dom, Big Bad Ass Motherfucker, Big Boy, Dom Dom, Natty Dom Dom, Natty, Fatty, Fatty Dom Dom, Fat Boy, Daddy, Mr Me
I think that’s all of them – I’ve been writing them down all day as they come up.
Thursday, April 17, 2008
Loving the alien
On a more sober note, why is it that in Hong Kong, where there is only me and one male assistant, we go through one roll of toilet paper every three or four weeks; but in New York, where there is me, one wife, and one female roommate, we go through four rolls in three days? What on earth are they doing with all that toilet paper?
Tuesday, April 08, 2008
Fast times
Apart from the hallucinations that come with poison derived fever, I never thought there was anything good about food poisoning … until now.
Three days without eating leaves a man somehow mentally cleansed. I usually trip over words and can’t communicate tête-à-tête, but after fasting for 3 days I found my mind actually able to express itself with speed and clarity. It’s been over a week now and I don’t feel hunger for anything. My old bedfellow, overindulgence, is conspicuously silent, and I feel liberated.
Oh, and during my convalescence, I finished Yukio Mishima’s “Spring Snow”. If anyone has the chance to read the end of this book, and follow Kiyoake’s descent into fever, while they themselves have a fever – I highly recommend it!
Sunday, April 06, 2008
I’m having a nightmare
Saturday, March 22, 2008
Eyes for eyes
Speaking of Obama; Wrong design will now like to formally rescind our backing for him to become the next president of the United States. I was thinking today, George Bush should have been impeached when the US invaded Iraq. I understand it’s a pretty big deal and there was an uncertain feeling, so I forgive the public for hesitating; but when the public re-elected him, I really lost all compassion for them, and I think I have to hold them more than a little responsible for the outcome. That’s why I think Barak Obama is too good to be the next president. Instead I think Dick Cheney should be president for at least 8 years. America shouldn’t get off so easy, they should stick it out, till there’s nothing left of the country except a heavily fortified White House with a golden temple in the garden housing the chief executive of Halliburton and a couple of other elite cronies.
Another option: Barak becomes president, then everyone who voted to re-elect Bush gets lined up and shot.
Tuesday, March 18, 2008
The Japan odyssey
We went to a Toulouse Lautrec exhibition at the Suntory Museum in Tokyo. This is the first touring exhibition I’ve been to in Japan and the procedure seems to be pretty much: stand in line for 30 minutes, get into the show and then move in a single file line with hundreds of other people. Can’t move ahead, can’t dilly-daddle. It’s a drag. Imagine all the genius of Toulouse Lautrec seeping into you and then being torn away, over and over again.
Gwa took us to an amazing tofu restaurant, recreated like a beautiful series of private rooms overlooking a landscaped garden. We had this amazing tofu picture on our wall.
Then things started going bad from there. We moved on to Osaka and Baby caught the flu, then I caught the flu, and I had to miss Riho’s birthday party at Pico-chan’s restaurant. We spent almost the whole of the 1st week in a fever, watching Japanese TV and living with a cat whose sole purpose in life was to inflame my allergies as much as possible. I swear I opened my eyes one night, gasping for breath, and the cat’s face was centimeters from mine, and it was laughing. Like all good women, though, it remained charming while at the same time was slowly destroying me.
My sty, by this time, had grown to amazing proportions. I think it was the combination of sake, flu and allergies, but it swelled up to an impressive, red globe with a portentous white head. Each day I awoke I had to pick the snot-like crust and goo out of my eye-lid. It would have been unbearable, had it not been so fascinating.
We delayed going to see Mom till we were almost recovered, then Baby lost her rail pass, so we spent half a day looking for it, going through the trash and everything. I was almost pleased, it was like a ticket out of every rebuttal I was going to face over the next several months for forgetting or not bothering to do something. We finally gave up and took the train up to Yonnago to see Mom. On the way we stopped at the Police station to file a ‘missing rail pass’ report. I really wish I had the balls to take photos in that police station. For all the wealth in Japan, they really haven’t channeled any of it to the police force. The walls were stained with years of dirt and hand washing. The chalk board was worn down to the wood in some places. The laptop had to be wired up, with a series of bulky cables stretching across from the custom-made reception desk, circa 1975. During the report two teenage boys in sports suits came in to hand over a wallet they found. It was like something out of a government sponsored infomercial from the 70’s. Everything was friendly, disciplined, charming.
My nose was running non-stop and my 4 year-old Armani Exchange jeans had finally given in under the bulk of my manhood and split along the crotch (I had to wear these jeans for the rest of the trip).
Mom had booked dinner and a room for us in a beautiful hotel on Mt Daisen. It was a beautiful, elegant old hotel on the snowy mountain with a magnificent view. We had an enormous room and access to everything. We got there so late though all the family had left, and we had to rush through our luxury meal so the staff could go home. Next morning we had to catch the 9am train to get to Atami on time for check-in. We’d chosen Atami for a mini-honeymoon because it’s where Baby’s Mom and Dad had gone on their honeymoon. When we were eating with Mom though she said “Why are you going to such a boring place?” Turns out Mom never went there on her honeymoon after all. The trip was really starting to go from bad to worse.
We checked out early, so we had enough time to see Grandma. This was exciting, and Grandma and I crossed the threshold of pretending we don’t see each other to actually speaking a couple of words. I like Grandma a lot, she just needs a little time to get used to me.
With our luxury hotel wasted, we soldiered on to Atami with a ridiculous amount of luggage.
Now, Atami was essentially the hottest resort town in Japan in the 50’s and 60’s. We assumed it would be full of old-world splendor. When we arrived though, it felt more like a ghost-town. We got given a room on the 4th floor, at the end of the corridor. This is pretty much the unluckiest room to get in China, because all the ghosts drift towards that spot. I’m not sure about Japan, but we left our shoes crossed at the doorway just in case (this makes it difficult for the ghosts to get in).
We went out for a wander and, I’m not kidding, the same black cat tried to cross our path twice. Things were really starting to feel creepy. We slept on a tatami floor with the sliding paper walls half-open and the light on.Next day, though, things started to change. We both felt much better, maybe from the fresh air and excitement. The staff were convinced I was, or was a double for, Ewan McGregor. I’m no big fan of his, but I’ll gladly take it if it means girls dig me. We took a tour of the area, the highlight of which was Kiunkaku, an old Ryokan (Japanese traditional inn) which hosted several famous writers, including one of my heroes Yukio Mishima (this is me with Yukio in one of the rooms he stayed in).
The place was truly enchanting, and the open access to so many of the rooms was amazing.
We also visited the oldest tree in Japan. Each time you walk around the tree you gain one year of life. I went around 5 times, and Baby went around 6 times, the logic being that she wanted to live 1 year longer than me (idiot).
That night we visited the famous statue of Omiya and Kan-ichi, recreated dramatically here. It was at this beach that the betrayed Kan-ichi said “You were blinded by his diamond” as he kicked Omiya away. Fortunately for Baby we got the shot in one take. By now we were starting to turn the wheels of fortune and things were becoming dandy again.
Next day we visited the MOA museum. This, like more than a few of Japan’s museums, was set up by a fanatical religious group. Japan really sets the imagination wild with the dizzying possibilities of cult worship and the power of organized religion. The museum is in parts creepy, particularly the enormous elevator lobby-like area that is half-way up the odd series of multicoloured escalators that lead from the first gate to the main entrance. It may have been impressive, had it not been for the fact that we went to the Miho Museum in Kyoto last year – another religious museum set in a remote mountain, but far, far superior. The highlight of the MOA was definitely the tryptich of three Japanese beauties, including the enchanting bitch Sei Shonagon.
After Atami, we returned to Tokyo. I started getting disenchanted with Tokyo as I saw more and more old men completely ignoring Baby as she was trying to get off the subway with her suitcase. They just walk ahead, blocking her way, and seem genuinely taken aback when you point out they are being complete assholes for not taking 3 seconds to stand out of the way while a female is getting off the train.
Oh, and when I got back to Hong Kong I bought Chivas Regal at duty free and a photo of Baby as a teenager in her school uniform fell out of my wallet onto the counter, and it looked really, really, really bad as I scurried to pick up and put away the photo of the Japanese schoolgirl while buying cheap whisky with my swollen eye.